PFAs in black haircare

PFAs in black haircare


This post has been updated in light of recent evidence demonstrating that PFAs (forever chemicals), along with endocrine disruptors and cancer-causing ingredients were found in products thanks to Harvard research
*It is necessary to mention that rosemary essential oil, though brilliant, should never ever be used neat on the scalp, and doing so can lead to physical burns on the scalp, and in some cases, hair loss. 
**Unless the hair oil, or 'serum', is entirely natural, you are paying for a water, synthetic fragrance, maybe synthesied oil (we never really know) and preservative. They are often unnecessary, when oil does a glorious job and is derived entirely from the plant/ fruit. I digress, here's what I know. 
 In the world of natural curly products, terminology can be deceiving. Take, for instance, "brassica" oil, often touted as a gentle, plant-derived ingredient. While technically accurate – brassica refers to the plant family that includes rapeseed, the extraction process for this oil can be far from gentle.

Conventional rapeseed oil production relies heavily on chemical solvents and high heat, raising concerns about potential environmental impact and residual chemicals in the final product. Note, links below explaining this. This begs the question: can we achieve the desired benefits of a plant-based oil like superior shine, softness and slip (detangling ability) and ensuring the purest possible ingredients for our curls? Let’s discuss.

Firstly, this ain't new and shopping for products that don't have any sort of rapeseed, or PFA or UPF for that matter isn't easy. Or it wasn't until now:

Here's precisely how to identify a dodgy oil, rapeseed or else when you're in your local Boots/ Superdrug/ Sainos or Waitrose.

Brassica oil (rapeseed) 

Polysorbate 20 (natural ingredient then treated with ethylene dioxide aka petroleum)

ISODODECANE (aka petroleum)

**Petroleum is a semi-solid hydrocarbon blend. 


The Allure of Safflower: A Sustainable and Curl (and skin)-Friendly Choice

In all seriousness this has been a humbling experience: we thought cold-pressed rapeseed oil was great, but as we delved into the facts about extraction we made a decision to switch. The answer lies in cold-pressed, organic safflower oil. Unlike rapeseed oil, safflower oil is extracted through a mechanical cold process using pressure, eliminating the need for harsh chemicals and excessive heat. This not only minimises environmental impact but also ensures a purer, more natural product for our curls.

But the benefits of safflower oil extend beyond its sustainable extraction process. Safflower oil is a rich source of linoleic acid, an essential fatty acid that compliments the richer oleic acid in olive oil, forming our hair oil: Five.

Safflower oil boasts well-documented hair-softening properties. Its lightweight, non-greasy nature makes it an excellent choice for a natural hair detangler and moisturiser. The icing on the cake? Safflower oil is non-comedogenic, meaning it won't clog pores and contribute to breakouts – a significant concern for those with acne-prone skin.

The Jim + Henry difference

By transitioning from rapeseed oil to cold-pressed, organic safflower oil, we are taking a stand. It sounds a touch melodramatic, but so few brands care because they put profit first, but we have been doing this since inception (2017). We believe in harnessing the power of nature's finest ingredients while ensuring the purest, most effective products for our customers.

So, the next time you see "safflower oil" on the Five ingredient list, know that you're not just getting a natural oil; you're growing with us. We learnt some information, we made a change, and we’re making things better for you and yours.

***Five is being discontinued, by 2027, but we will still write about discuss the imperative of natural ingredients, natural oils and what we know because when we know better, we know better***

Links:

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6296546/#:~:text=Canola%20oil%20is%20extracted%20by,using%20steam%20distillation%20%5B4%5D.

Extracts from the links: Canola oil (American term for rapeseed) is extracted by heating the crushed canola seeds dissolved in the hexane solvent or by cold press method [4]. Finally, it is refined using water precipitation and organic acid to remove gums and free fatty acids, filtering to remove color, and deodorising using steam distillation [4]

Refining methods largely remove vitamin E, carotenoids and chlorophylls during bleaching [6] and deodorization processes [7]. Refining process renders canola oil a hydrogenated mess of trans fatty acids and their consumption may lead to heart problems, blood platelet abnormalities, increased cancer risk and free radical damage. Imagine what this does to our hair.

https://www.smartholistics.co.uk/news-blog/the-dark-side-of-rapeseed-oil/#:~:text=While%20this%20all%20sounds%20great,Vitamin%20E%20by%20the%20body.

https://silentspring.org/news/hair-products-black-women-contain-mix-hazardous-ingredients

Extracts from the above link: Mention is rarely made of the very toxic substance rapeseed oil also contains. Eruric acid. Not only does it irritate mucous membranes, but damages the myelin sheath around nerves and interferes with the use of Vitamin E by the body.

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