Texture release AKA Relaxer
The allure of Texture Release - a looser curl pattern and easier manageability - often masks its darker side. The chemicals it employs, while touted as gentle, are deceptive. We know Texture Release, along with Brazilian Blow Dry and Keratin treatments are marketed as a softer alternatives to relaxer, but the chemicals (see below) are far from safe. They are in fact, the exact opposite.
We know: if you are fortunate to have rich Afro hair you might want a looser texture. We love change, ease and variety. But say it with us: Texture Release/ Keratin Treatment and Brazilian Blow Dry are as damaging as relaxer. Applying 100ml of bleach or 1 litre of bleach to your scalp will have the same effect. Let’s learn together.
Chemicals found in every ‘treatment’
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formalin
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methylene glycol
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methylene oxide
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paraform
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formic aldehyde
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methanol
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oxymethylene
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oxomethane
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CAS Number 50-00-0
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timonacic acid
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sodium hydroxide
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various perfumes or scents
What they do
These ingredients temporarily and permanently alter the hair's structure, making it straighter. However, overuse can lead to dryness and protein build-up. Meaning you rely on more and more products to inject moisture back into your curls.
Thiols: These break down hair bonds, leading to breakage over time: every 8/9 weeks - you’re damaging your hair. Right when the new, young curls sprout.
Aldehyde: These are versions of formaldehyde which can cause dizziness, headaches and can generally damage our respiratory, neurological and endocrine systems.
Damage on the body
A study of more than 22,000 African-American women showed an association between the use of relaxers and risk of uterine leiomyomata. The incidence of this disease is 2 to 3 times higher in African-Americans than Caucasian women.
Another study found that using chemical hair-straightening treatments (including any Texture Release, Keratin Treatment or Brazilian Blow Dry) during pregnancy may be linked to some types of leukaemia in children under the age of 2.
It’s not just you
Heat converts liquid formaldehyde into a gas that creates fumes that can sicken hairdressers and anyone working in a salon. The California Safe Cosmetics Program 2023 stated:
“Those who work with cosmetics, e.g., barbers, hair stylists may be more vulnerable to the adverse health effects posed by hair straightening cosmetics because they handle the ingredients with greater frequency.”
"The fact that formaldehyde is still allowed in hair care products is mind-blowing to me," said Linda Birnbaum, a former director of the National Institute of Environmental Health Sciences and the National Toxicology Program.
Lived experiences
Science aside, you tell us frequently on our socials about how texture release, Brazilian Blow Dry and Keratin ‘treatments’ have harmed your curls.
Options
Texture Releases in any form can be tempting options, but they’re not without risks. If you want to straighten your hair, a hairdryer or physical hair straightening irons are less-damaging than chemicals, which have a more long-term negative health impact.
We know it’s not easy. And for some of us embracing our natural hair seems like anathema, but for truly healthy, manageable curls we are offer styling advice for Afro textures, advice for care and simple how-to-use steps in this very blog.
Unsure what to use? See here.
Sincerely Yours,
Tammy
Further reading: